Greetings from Philadelphia

April vacation for the Hemm family is a is a trek throughout the Mid-Atlantic states, starting with the City of Brotherly Love.

We left home at 6:30am on Saturday full of energy and excitement and were parked in Philadelphia by lunchtime. As we traveled south, Spring emerged. Daffodils in NY, flowering trees in NJ, and green grass in PA. I hadn't realized how much I needed the warmth and green. Shedding layers as the temperatures rose into the 80s was rejuveating.

Our first stop was Reading Terminal Market. Being a gorgeous Saturday at lunch time, it was bustling! Kids were a little overwhelmed by all the activity. Stalls of foods, people everywhere, noise. While I feed off of this energy, it may have been little much for the kids' first introduction to Philly. We found some food and went outside to sit by the convention center. The #1 reason for going to Reading Terminal Market is the Amish apple dumplings. This picture belies how amazing it is. The pastry is flaky, the apple firm, and fresh cream tops it off. Mmmmm... In addition to it being a delicacy it reminds me of my Mr. Burley. He grew up in Amish country and this was his favorite desert. I'm sure I'll be reminded of him many times throughout this trip.

I lived in Philly for a while, about 8 months while working on my MBA at Temple. Returning, the city felt so familiar: the layout of the streets, the smells, the fashions, the mix of commerce and history. Yet for some reason, when we made it to Center City I was so discombobulated. I couldn't even find Temple. Perhaps I came at it from a different angle. Maybe landmarks have changed in the last 16 years. Whatever it was, eventually I did see that familiar T but it felt good to get the obligatory LOVE photo and retrace our steps back toward the historical area of town.

Philadelphia has a rocking arts culture, often with some subtle (or less so) political messages. As we worked our way down Chestnut Street past the fancy CVS, the roll down gated stores, and questionable fashions, we appreciated some of the hidden artwork in town.

By the time we walked to the historic district, the air conditioning of the Benjamin Franklin Museum was calling us. I've been to the courtyard of the museum before but hadn't been inside (apparently the $5 admission fee was too steep for the grad school version of myself!). As always, when I cross paths with Ben Franklin I am awed by his breadth of genius. Sharing him with the kids and watching their admiration grow was the best part of my experience. They were excited to walk where he walked, to see his "poop hole" (aka the foundation of the privy pit), learn about his inventions, and try out the brain teasers. Before we left home Anna and Luke decorated a section of the basement to be their reading nook. The museum provided lots of quotes that they want to add when they get home.

 

We ended the day with pizza and a movie in the hotel room. We were all beat and a quiet night was needed by all. I have a feeling that will be a theme on this trip! The kids are keeping journals and spent some time writing about the day's adventures.

Sunday we woke up to much cooler temperatures and some drizzle. A little weather can't stop us though! In the Liberty Plaza parking garage we found some more artwork. These beautiful murals gave us an opportunity to talk about race in the context of history. Seeing the slaves and freed blacks in the forefront of the scenes is a different perspective than we usually have of the revolutionary times.

Being early birds, we were among the first people to get into to see the Liberty Bell. The whole facility had been redone since I was last there and the visitors' center was beautiful. Luke, my social child, went right up to a ranger and asked him about the age of the piece of wood holding the bell. I imagine it was the first time he'd been asked that question! If you are curious, it is elm and is at least 300 years old and probably came from a tree that was planted over 400 years ago. He continued his learning by reading the information placards - en espanol.  I love this kid and his curiosity.

We crossed the road to Independence Hall next for a tour. Our guide, Mike Doveton, was an incredible ranger. He brought history to life with his story telling. He was gifted at creating context for the events surrounding the revolution. I gained a greater appreciation for the people of that time and the events that led to the creation of our government. He also emphasized the role of the Parks Service in protecting not only the land but the culture and the places that make up our country. Mike is a true ambassador of the Parks and especially Independence Hall. I've since Googled him and found out that he also started the annual commemoration of Reminder Day, the first organized gay pride activities in the US. As a champion of Reminder Day, he adds to the NPS's focus to recognize the history of gay and lesbian rights in this country. 

 

One last stop in Philly before heading on to DC: a taste test of Philly Cheese Steaks. We went to South Philly to try Pat's and Geno's.  While we appreciated the authentic grittiness of Pat's, Geno's meat, cheese, and paper made them the clear winner.  (Yes, we have heard there are better cheese steaks in town but the convenience of location made these a convenient place to do a head to head comparison.)

Until next time, Philly!